Walking in Western Crete

Hania gives good access by public transport to a wide range of walks. Otherwise Rethimnon could be a suitable base as it, too, has good transport links. Obviously your own wheels give you the opportunity to explore more of Crete by car.

8 car tours, 55 long and short walks, many picnic suggestions
152 pages + two touring maps covering both western Crete and eastern Crete; plans of Hania and Rethimnon; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
10th ed, 2023; ISBN 978185691-546-5
UK retail price £15.99 / USA retail price $21.00 / euro €17,50

Tables of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Background reading 6
Getting about 7
Plans of Hania and Rethimnon 8-9
Picnicking 10
Picnic suggestions 11
Country code for walkers and motorists 13

Touring 14
Some points worth noting 15

1 THE FAR WEST 16
Hania • (Kastelli-Kissamos) • (Polirinia) • Vathi • Moni Chrisoskalitisas • (Elafonisi) • Elos • Topolia • Hania

2 PALEOHORA AND SOUTH COAST BEACHES 20
Hania • Tavronitis • Voukolies • Kandanos • Paleohora • Kandanos • (Sougia) • Hania

3 COUNTRYSIDE, COASTAL BACKWATER AND HIGH CRETAN PASTURELAND 23
Hania • Nea Roumata • Agia Irini • Epanohori • Sougia • Omalos • Lakki • Fournes • Hania

4 THE AKROTIRI PENINSULA 26
Hania • Kounoupidiana • Stavros • Agia Triada • Moni Gouverneto • (Souda Bay Cemetery) • Hania

5 THE FOOTHILLS OF THE LEVKA ORI 28
Hania • Aptera • Katohori • Kambi • Mournies • Hania

6 A SLICE OF CRETE 30
Hania • Vrises • Askyfou • Hora Sfakion • Frangokastello • Selia • Asomatos • Moni Preveli •
Rethimnon • Episkopi • Georgioupoli • Hania

7 CRETAN TREASURES 36
Hania • (Rethimnon) • Armeni • Spili • Agia Galini • Festos • Agia Triada • Hania

8 THE AMARI VALLEY 39
Hania • Rethimnon • Apostoli • Thronos • Fourfouras • Agios Ioannis • Gerakari • Rethimnon • Hania

Walking (see explanation of symbols on pages 41 and 42) 41
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 42
Things that bite or sting 44
What to take 45
Where to stay 46
Walkers’ checklist 46
Weather 47
Greek for walkers 47
Organisation of the walks 49

THE WALKS
1 Circuit via Agia
2 Kotsifou Gorge
3 The Diktamos Gorge: from Katohori to Stilos or Nio Horio)
4 Kambi • Volika refuge • Kambi
5 Georgioupoli circuit
6 Lake Kournas circuit
7 The Prassanos Gorge
8 Vrissinas — Minoan peak sanctuary 9 Rethimnon • Chromonastiri • Myli
10 Myli Gorge
11 Gouverneto and Katholikou
12 Rodopos • Agios Ioannis Gionis • Rodopos
13 A circuit from Kolimbari via Moni Gonia
14 From Sirikari to Polirinia
15 Katsomatados • Mouri • Voulgaro
16 Sasalos • Katsomatados • Topolia
17 The Agia Irini Gorge
18 Sougia • Lisos • Paleohora
19 From Paleohora (Krios Beach) to Elafonisi
20 Xiloskala • Afhenas Col • Gingilos • Xiloskala
21 A high mountain circuit from Kallergi
22 The Samaria Gorge
23 From Agia Roumeli to Loutro
24 Loutro and the Aradhena Gorge
25 From Loutro to Hora Sfakion
26 The Imbros Gorge • Komitades • Hora Sfakion
27 Kares (Askyfou) • Asfendos • Agios Nektarios
28 Circuit via Moni Preveli
29 Ano Meros • Tripiti • Ano Meros
30 Circuit from Mixorouma via Frati
31 The Kamares Cave
32 Eleftherna

Bus timetables 149

Index (of geographical names) 151

Fold-out touring maps of Western and Eastern Crete inside back cover

Agiá (Eye-ee-ah; village and lake) 10, 24, 50, 51, 52, 53
Agía Fotiní (Eye-ee-ah Fo- tee-nee) 39, 40
Agía Galíni (— Ga-lee-nee) 37, 38, 150
Agía Iríni Gorge (— Eye- ree-nee) 24, 98, 99, 99
Agía Iríni (above Rethim- non) 64-5, 66-7
Agía Marína (— Ma-ree-na) 16, 51, 134
Agía Pelagía (— Pel-ah-gee- ah) 142, 143
Agía Rouméli (— Roo-meh- lee) 112, 113, 114, 116-7
Agía Sophiá (— Sof-yah; cave chapel near Topolia) 1, 19, 82, 85
Agía Triáda (— Tree-a-da);
Minoan palace near
Festós 36, 38
Ágios Ioánnis (Eye-ee-oss Ee-o-a-nis) 40
Ágios Ioánnis Giónis (chapel on the Rodopoú Peninsula) 85, 86, 87
Ágios Nektários (— Nek-tari-oss) 31, 130, 131, 133
Ágios Pávlos (chapel on the Rodopoú Peninsula) 85, 86, 87
Ágios Pávlos (chapel east of Agía Rouméli) 116-7, 118
Akrotíri Peninsula (Ak-ro-tir-ry) 4, 26, 83, 83
Amári Valley (Ah-ma-ree) 12, 39, 40
Ano Méros (A-no Meh-ross) 40, 138-9, 139, 140
Anópolis (A-no-poh-lee) 120-1, 125
Apóstoli (A-pos-toh-lee) 39, 40
Aptéra (Ap-teh-ra; site) 28-9, 35
Arádhena (A-ra-day-na; village and gorge) 116-7, 118, 119, 120-1, 122, 123, 124
Argirimoúri (Ar-gee-ree- moo-ree) 64, 66
Arméni (Ar-meh-nee) 32, 37
Asféndos (Ahs-fen-doss) 130, 131, 133
Ask ́yfou (Ahs-kee-foo; village and plain) 31, 130, 131, 132
Asómatos (Ah-so-ma-toss) 32, 134, 135, 150
Astrátigos (As-tra-tee-goss) 88, 89, 89

Bálos (Ba-los) 17

Chromonastíri (Kro-mo- nas-tir-ry) 75, 77, 79

Díktamos Gorge (Deek-ta- moss) 11, 56-7, 58, 59

Elafonísi (Ella-fo-nee-see) 18-9, 102-3, 150
Eléftherna (El-eff-there-na) 12, 146, 147, 148, 148, 150
Elos (Ell-oss) 16, 19
Epanohóri (Eh-pa-no-ho-ree) 24, 86, 87
Epískopi (Eh-pis-ko-pee) 35
Exópolis (Ex-oh-po-lee) 65, 66

Falasárna (Fah-la-sar-na) 18
Fínix 118, 120-1
Féstos (Fay-stoss; site) 36-7
Fourfourás (For-for-ahs) 39
Fournés (For-nes) 25
Frangokástello (Fran-go-kass-tel-lo; site) 30, 31, 33
Fráti (Fra-tee) 141, 142, 142-3

Georgioúpoli (Yeor-you-po-lee) 34, 35, 64, 66, 67, 69
Gerakári (Yer-ra-ka-ree) 40, 122
Gíngilos (Gyn-gee-loss; mountain) 104, 105, 105, 107, 109, 113
Gramvoúsa Peninsula (Gram-voo-sa) 17, 18

Haniá (Han-ya) 20, 22, 24, 26, 39, 46, 149-50
town plan 8
Hóra Sfakíon (Ho-ra Sfa-kee-on) 30, 31, 101, 104, 106-7, 111, 112, 113, 114, 116, 120-1, 126, 129, 149-50

Ida (Eye-da; mountain and range of mountains; also called Psilorítis) 37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 76, 138, 144
Imbros (Eem-bross; village and gorge) 11, 31, 127, 128, 129, 129
Iráklion (Ee-rak-lee-on) 149-50

Kallérgi (Kal-lair-gee; refuge in the White Mountains) 46, 108, 109, 110, 110-1
Kaloidena Chapel (above Ano Meros) 12
Kaloudianá (Ka-loo-dee-a- na) 19, 138, 139
Kamáres (Ka-ma-race; village and cave) 144, 145, 145, 150
Kámbi (Kam-bee) 11, 29, 60, 62, 63
Kándanos (Kan-da-noss) 20
Kapadianá (Ka-pa-dee-eye-ah-na) 74, 75, 75, 76
Karés (Kar-ress) 31, 130, 131
Kastélli-Kíssamos (usually just referred to as Kass-tel-ly or Kiss-a-mohs) 16, 46, 149-50 Katohóri (Ka-toe-ho-ree) 29, 56-7, 93, 94, 95
Káto Prevéli 35, 135, 136
Káto Stalós (Ka-to Sta-loss) 16, 50, 51, 150
Katsomatádos (Kat-so-ma-ta-doss) 11, 19, 90, 93, 94, 96, 97
Kédros (Keh-dross; mountain) 36, 37, 38, 138
Kolimbári (Ko-lim-ba-ree) 16, 88, 89, 149
Komitádes (Ko-mee-ta-dess) 31, 127, 129
Kotsífou Gorge (Kot-see-foo) 11, 30, 35, 54, 55, 56
Kounoupidianá (Koo-noo-pee-dee-ah-na)
26 Kournás (Kor-nass; village and lake) 11, 35, 67, 68-9
Kourtaliótiko Gorge (Koor-ta-lee-o-tee-ko) 12, 30, 32, 119, 125-7
Kríos Beach (Kree-oss) 102, 102-3

Lákki (Lak-kee) 25
Levká Ori (Lev-ka O-ree; ‘White Mountains’) 6, 22, 24, 26, 30, 42, 50, 56, 68, 100, 109, 110, 112, 122, 132
Likotinará (Lik-o-tee-na-ra) 65, 66
Afhenas Col (col below Gíngilos) 104, 105, 107
Lisós (Lee-soss; site) 23, 45, 100-1, 101
Livanianá (Li-va-nee-a-na) 116-7, 119, 120-1,
Loutró (Loo-tro) 116, 117, 119, 120-1, 125, 126
L ́ykkos (Lee-kos) 116-7, 118, 119, 120-1
Madáro (Ma-da-roh) 60, 62
Máleme (Ma-leh-meh) 16, 150
Marioú (Ma-ree-oo) 32
Mathés 59, 60, 61
Mávri (Ma-vree; mountain) 108, 110-1
Megalopótamos (river) 11, 12-3, 135, 137, 141, 142, 143
Melindaoú (Me-lin-dow-oo; mountain) 108, 110-1
Mesara Plain 36-7, 38, 140
Missíria (Mi-see-ree-a) 70, 72, 73
Mírthios (Meer-tee-oss) 31, 54, 56
Mixórouma 37, 141, 142, 143, 150
Moní (Mo-nee; monastery or chapel)
Agía Triáda (— Tree-a-da) 26-7
Chrisoskalítisas (— Hri-so-ska-lee-tee-sass) 18, 19, 150
Goniá (— Gon-yah) 16, 88, 89
Gouvernéto (— Goo-ver-neh-toh) 12, 26, 82, 83
Katholikoú (— Ka-tho-lee-koo) 4, 26, 82-3, 83
Préveli (— Pray-veh-lee) 30, 32, 134, 135, 150
Mourí (Moo-ree) 92, 93, 94, 95
Mourné 141, 142
Mourniés (Moor-nee-ess) 29
My ́li (Mee-lee; village and gorge) 11, 43, 77, 79, 80, 81

Néa Roúmata (Nay-a Roo-ma-ta) 24
Nío Horió (Nee-o Hor-yo) 56-57, 59

Omalós Plain (O-ma-loss) 25, 46, 99, 101, 149-50

Paleohóra (Pa-lay-o-ho-ra) 20-1, 22, 100, 101, 102-3, 149
Palm (Preveli) Beach 134, 135, 136, 137
Perivólia (Pe-ree-vo-lee-a) 80, 81
Plákias (Plah-key-ahs) 32-3, 54, 55, 56, 150
Plataniás (Pla-tan-yas) 16, 50, 51, 53, 150
Polirínia (Polly-reen-ya) 10, 11, 18, 90, 91, 91
Prasés (Prah-sess) 24
Prasiés (Pra-zie-ess) 39, 62, 64, 65
Prassanós Gorge (Pras-sa-noss) 39, 70, 71, 72, 73
Profítis Ilías (Pro-fee-tiss Ill-ee-ass; chapel above Rethimnon) 77, 78
Psilorítis (Psi-lo-ree-tiss) see Ida
Psilos Volakas (beach west of Paleohora) 20-1
Réthimnon (Reth-eem-non) 11, 30, 32, 39, 40, 46, 69, 149-50
town plan 9
Rodopós (Ro-tho-poss) 84, 85, 86, 87
Rodopoú Peninsula (Ro-tho-poo) 16, 84, 85
Roussospíti 75, 77, 78, 80

Samariá Gorge (Sa-ma-ree-a) 22-3, 112, 113, 113, 114, 115, cover
Sásalos (Sass-a-loss) 93, 96, 97, 97
Seliá (Sel-yah)
near Mírthios 31
near Georgioúpoli 35, 65, 66
Sfinári (Sfee-na-ree) 18
Sirikári (Sirry-ka-ree) 90, 91
Soúda Bay (Soo-da) 28-9
Soúgia (Soo-yah) 22, 23, 24, 25, 98, 99, 100-1, 101, 149
Spíli (Spee-lee) 36, 150
Stalós (Sta-loss) 50, 51
Stavrós (Sta-vross) 26, 27
Stílos (Stee-loss) 56-7, 59

Tavronítis (Tav-ro-nee-tis) 16, 20
Thrónos (Thro-noss) 39
Topólia (Toh-poll-yah; village and gorge) 1, 2, 19, 93, 96, 97
Trípiti (Tree-pi-tee; peak) 138, 139, 140

Váthi (Va-thee) 18
Volakiás (peak above Gingílos) 105, 107
Vólika Refuge (Vo-lee-ka) 60, 61, 62, 63
Voukoliés (Voo-ko-lee-ess) 20
Voulgáro (Vool-ga-ro) 19, 90, 93
Vríses (Vree-ses) near Haniá 30
near Ano Meros 40
Vríssinas (Vree-see-nas; mountain; Minoan peak sanctuary) 39, 74, 75, 75, 76

White Mountains see Levka Ori

Xepitiras Arch (rock formation below Gíngilos) 105, 105
Xilóskala (Ksee-lo-ska-la; staircase with wooden railings leading to Samariá Gorge) 22-3, 25, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 110-1, 113, 114

Western Crete, 10th edition (2023); updated 15/5/2023

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) in Western Crete given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

Buses: KTEL operated a much reduced timetable during the pandemic. New timetables, valid for the duration of this edition, were not available before we went to press. We urge you, if you are taking the buses, to go to the nearest station to your base and get up-date-information. [Sunflower]

Walk 2: We walked this yesterday. The GPX downloads are a great help partnered with the ViewRanger app. We found a problem at waypoint 3, where the path recommended to the stepping stones is impenetrable. By continuing further on the same bank (as others seem to have done) about 100m, just before a stock control fence, it is possible to descend to the stream and cross over some stepping stones, and regain the path to the bridge. (User, 5/19)[Sunflower: paths like this one change from year to year.] • Short walk 1: Mostly fine, I was a little bit worried by evidence of new building work (that looked industrial) where you cross the stream on stepping stones, but we were still able to walk by the side of the new fence. (5/23)

Walk 5: For the Short walk, pick up the notes at (1), not (2)! (Sunflower,  2023) • We parked at the Georgia taverna, though there’s few spaces. It looks as though it’s been closed for a few years. The outward path is well waymarked and not overgrown, so pleasant and easy to follow. After point 5 we located the path right with water pipe easily and there were plenty of waymarks, and again not very overgrown. We could see we were parallel to the road after some minutes, so all was fine. There were plenty of clear red/white waymarks close to a new-looking boundary wall and fence, which we followed. But we never found the point at 6 closer to the road. We continued along the waymarked path (with lots of loose rocks and undergrowth) which eventually leads through a farm with peacocks and out to a drive leading back to the main road to reach the car about 200m further along. (User, 5/23)[Sunflower: It’s good to know that the paths have been cleared and waymarked. The reason she did not reach waypoint 6 is because there is a newly cleared path, not shown on our map, which is directly beneath where we show the waypoint. It runs about 80m east of the bend in the road. It seems that after the farm this user turned left on the road – walking about 2km (not 200m) back to her car. She did not go into Exopolis.]

Walk 9: Here is a new suggested circuit for motorists (about 7.5 miles): Drive to Agia Irini, where, just before the monastery (seen on the cliff top on your right) there’s a large parking area on the left side of the road.  From here, follow the main walk to the bus stop in Myli.  Directly opposite the bus stop, take the very steep concrete footpath that emerges in front of a house on a bend.  Keep slightly right, following the road to a wider area and go ahead right to find a lane on the other side of this ‘square’. This becomes a track that joins the main road back to Roussospiti.  Follow the main road, choosing right turns towards Roussospiti to rejoin your outward path in the village, all the way back to your vehicle. (User 5/23) • Walks 9 and 10 combined: We did 8 and 9 as a circular walk, starting and ending in the old city of Rethimnon. This was 21K and took us 6-3/4 hours and avoided the inconvenience of fitting in buses etc. we are both 74 so any of your younger readers should manage! (User)

Walk suggestion: Palea Roumata is a pleasant village with a busy taverna, a very large church and a little park which sets off a group of olive trees which are reputed to be 3000 years old. The drive down to the village offers spectacular views. There is a short gorge walk from near the olive trees. As you return from the olive trees towards the village centre take the first opening on your right which goes through what appears to be a private courtyard (it is not). You will know you are on the right path when you come to an old well on your left with a roof and a seat nearby (in about 50m). Just follow this path which leads to the (dry in summer) river and keep left to follow the stream bed up. You are soon amongst plane trees and occasionally have to cross the river bed but never leave it. Eventually the gorge forks and make sure you take the left hand branch. There are picnic areas and soon after a large one on the right the path leads up to your right and out of the gorge. It leads to the hamlet of Vavouledo where there is a small taverna where you may get a drink and perhaps a very modest snack courtesy of the host. You may get a meal at weekends. Since this is a short walk this does not matter as the walk back to Palea Roumata along the road is short and comes out at the taverna. Total distance about 5km. (User, 10/17)

Walk 28: After reaching the car park at waypoint 3, we found we couldn’t join the path to turn left because there’s a new, metal gate, electrically operated and quite high. We saw a paved footpath to the left of the fence along the vehicle access road which would’ve allowed access to the path, but I don’t know where the access from the car park end was since we’d followed the instructions to leave at the vehicle exit. We continued along the road and turned left along a dirt track about 50m further along that intersects the path between 2 fences described. At the point they met we found a blue sign to Moni Preveli. We did carry on in the direction of the path but had to climb the fence in a place others had done before. The path has been obliterated and we had a similar problem the other side of the field, but took the same approach. After this, apart from water damage, the path was fine. Very good walk! (User, 5/23) [Sunflower: It might be better to keep along the road to the main road and turn left there, rather than climb over fences.]

GPS files for use with Landscapes of Western Crete:

Download GPS files for Landscapes of Western Crete.

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