Walking in Southern Cyprus

The highest concentration of walks is in the Troodos mountains and between Pafos and the Akamas Peninsula.

7 car tours, 65 long and short walks, 15 picnic suggestions
136 pages + touring map; plans of Lefkosia, Pafos, Lemessos, Larnaka, Ayia Napa; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
9th ed, 2023; ISBN 978-1-85691-548-9; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00 / euro €16,50

Table of contents:

Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Books 6

Getting about 7
Plans of Lefkosia, Pafos, Larnaka, Lemesos,
Ayia Napa 8
with exits for motorists, bus and service taxi locations

Picnicking 14
Picnic suggestions 15

A country code for walkers and motorists 19

Touring 20
WESTERN WAYS (TOUR 1) 22
Pafos · Coral Bay · Peyia · Kathikas · Drousseia ·
Prodhromi · Lachi · Baths of Aphrodite ·
(4WD options) · Polis · Skoulli · Stroumbi · Pafos
OLD VILLAGES, ROCKS AND BONES! (TOUR 2) 26
Pafos · Yeroskipos · Kouklia · Pano Arkhimandrita ·
Dhora · Arsos · Omodhos · Episkopi · Kourion ·
Petra tou Romiou · Pafos
LAND OF THE MOUFFLON (TOUR 3) 28
Pafos · Polemi · Kannaviou · Stavros tis Psokas ·
Dhodheka Anemi · Cedar Valley · Kykko Monastery ·
Panayia · Chrysorroyiatissa Monastery · Statos · Pafos
FROM PAFOS TO PLATRES (TOUR 4) 31
Pafos · Asprokremnos Dam · Nikouklia · Phasoula ·
Ayios Yeoryios · Kithasi · Kedhares · Ayios Nikolaos ·
Pera Pedi · Saittas · Platres
A CAPITAL CIRCUIT (TOUR 5) 33
Lemesos · Trimiklini · Platres · Troodos · Kakopetria ·
Galata · Peristerona · Lefkosia · (Stavrovouni Monastery)
· Lemesos
THE HEIGHT OF ORTHODOXY (TOUR 6) 36
Larnaka · Hala Sultan Tekke · Kiti · Dhromolaxia ·
Kalokhorio · Pyrga · Stavrovouni Monastery ·
Kophinou · Larnaka
THE FAR EAST (TOUR 7) 38
Larnaka · Dhekelia crossroads · Phrenaros · Dherinia
· Paralimni · Protaras · Cape Greco · Ayia Napa ·
Xylophagou · Larnaka

Walking 41
Waymarking and maps 41
Where to stay 42
Weather 44
What to take 44
Walkers’ checklist 45
Nuisances 46
Photography 46
Greek for walkers 47
Organisation of the walks47
THE WALKS
1 Troodos · Chromion · Mount Olympus · Troodos 49
2 Troodos · Makrya Kontarka · Troodos 52
3 Troodos · Caledonian Falls · Platres 53
4 Troodos · Makrya Kontarka · Mesapotamos
Monastery · Platres 56
5 Psilon Dhendron · Pouziaris · Psilon Dhendron 58
6 Trooditissa 60
7 Madhari Ridge 62
8 Pera Pedi · Ayia Mavri · Koilani · Pera Pedi 65
9 Stavros tis Psokas 67
10 Cedar Valley and Mount Tripylos 69
11 Circuit from Ayios Neophytos 71
12 Around Kathikas 73
13 Kissonerga to Coral Bay 74
14 Lara Beach 76
15 From Drousseia to Ayios Yeoryios 77
16 Avagas Gorge 80
17 Khapotami Gorge 82
18 Circuit from Alekhtora 86
19 Fontana Amorosa coastal path 89
20 The ‘Aphrodonis’ trail 91
21 Akamas gold 94
22 Kritou Terra and Terra 96
23 Miliou · Theletra · Miliou 98
24 Alamanou to Governor’s Beach 101
25 Kellaki to Yermasoyia 103
26 Mount Makheras 108
27 Stavrovouni Monastery 110
28 Around Cape Kiti 112
29 Ayia Napa · Cape Greco · Protaras 115
30 Ayia Napa to Profitis Ilias 119

Service taxi and bus timetables 121
Index 134
Fold-out island map inside back cover

Adonis Nature Trail 96-7, 98, 99, 100, TM
Agia Ekaterina (church, near Drousseia) 102
Agia Mavri 67, 68
Agia Napa 18, 39, 41, 43, 49, 121, 122-3, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126 town plan 13
Agiasma Nature Trail 25, 76-7, 77
Agii Pateres (shrine in Pano Arkhimandrita) 26, 88, 89, 90
Agii Saranta (cave church, near Protaras) 18, 122-3, 125, 126
Agios Ioannis (church, near Protaras) 122-3, 125
Agios Georgios (north of Pafos) 22, 24, 80, 82- 3, 84, 85
Agios Georgios (church near Alekhtora) 91, 92, 193
Agios Georgios Alamanou (monastery) 36, 106, 107, 107
Agios Leonidos (church at Perivolia) 118, 119, 119
Agios Minas (church, near the Smigies picnic area) 24, 100, TM
Agios Neophytos (monastery) 25, 74, 75, 75
Akamas Peninsula 6, 43, 44, 80-1, 82-3, 84, 86, 96-7, 98, 99, TM
Akoursos 16, 23, 78 Alekhtora 17, 27, 87, 89, 93
Almyrolivado (picnic site) 56-57, 58, 58
Androlikou 24, 84, 100, TM
Aphrodite Nature Trail 96-7, 98, 99, 100, TM
Aphrodite, Baths of (Loutra Aphroditis) 17, 22, 24, 94, 95, 97, 98, 99, TM
Aphrodite’s Rocks 26-7, cover
Arsos 26
Artemis Nature Trail 15, 50, 52, 56-7 Asinou 35, 36
Asprokremnos Dam 32
Atichoulli Gorge 31
Avagas Gorge 24, 80-1, 82-3, 85, 86

Cape Arnauti 94, 96-7, TM
Cape Greco 39, 40, 41, 121, 122, 122-3, 125
Cape Kiti 118, 119, 119 Cedar Valley 16, 28, 72, 73, 73
Chromion 50, 52, 56-7
Chrysorroyiatissa (monastery) 28, 31
Coral Bay 17, 22, 24, 78, 79

Dhekelia 27, 40, 41
Dherinia 39, 40
Dhiarizos Valley 32-3
Dhodheka Anemi 16, 28, 29, 68, 72, 73
Dhora 26, 33
Dhromolaxia 37, 38
Doxasi o Theos Nature Trail 64-5, 66
Drousseia 17, 22, 24, 43, 82-3, 84, 101, 102

Episkopi 26, 27
Evretou Dam 31

Famagusta 40
Fasli 24
Fig Tree Bay see Protaras
Fontana Amorosa 94, 95, 97, TM

Galata 34, 36
Germasogia 36, 108-9, 112
Germasogia Dam 108-9, 110-1
Geroskipou 26, 35
Governor’s Beach 35, 106, 107

Hala Sultan Tekke (mosque) 35, 37, 38
Horteri Nature Trail 28, 69, 71

Kakopetria 34, 36, 44, 59
Kaledonia Falls 16, 53, 54, 55, 56-7
Kalokhorio 37, 38, 114
Kambi tou Kalogerou (picnic site) 56-7, 63
Kambos tou Livadiou (picnic site) 16, 56-7, 58, 59
Kannaviou 28, 31, 69, 73
Kathikas 17, 22, 25, 44, 76, 77
Kato Arkhimandrita 87, 88-9, 90, 91
Kato Arodhes 22, 25
Kato Theletra 23, 25, 103, 104, 105, 105
Kedhares 33
Kellaki 108-9, 109, 111
Kermia Beach 18, 121, 122-3, 124
Khapotami Gorge 17, 27, 87, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93
Khoulou 31
Kionia (Nature Trail and picnic site) 114, 115
Kissonerga 22, 24, 78, 79
Kiti 18, 37, 38, 119, 119, 120
Kiti Tower 119
Konnos Bay 122-3
Kophinou 37, 38
Kornos Forestry Station 34, 37, 38
Kouka 67, 68
Kouklia 18, 26-7, 32
Kourion 26, 27
Kremiotis Waterfalls 18, 101, 102
Kritou Terra 22, 101, 102
Kryos Potamos (river) 15, 16, 53, 54, 56-7, 60
Kykko (monastery) 28, 29, 30-1, 69, 72, 115
Kyparissia (peak) 108-9, 110, 111
Kyperounda 16, 36, 64-5, 66

Lagoudhera 64-5, 65 Lakki 4, 22, 23, 24, 44, 49, 94, 98, TM
Lakko tou Frankou 91, 93 Laona (area) 22, 23, 76, 85
Lara Beach 6, 14-5, 17, 24, 80, 81, 82-3, 84
Larnaka (Larnaca) 35, 37, 39, 41, 44, 49, 106, 116, 118
town plan 11
Lefkara 36
Lefkosia (Nicosia) 5, 20, 21, 29, 32, 33, 34, 36
town plan 8-9
Lemesos (Limassol) 34, 36, 44, 49, 106, 108
town plan 12-3
Lofou 67, 68
Lyso 31, 69, 71

Madhari Ridge 16, 64-5, 67
Makheras (monastery) 113, 114, 115
Makrya Kontarka 16, 53, 56-7
Mallia 33
Mandria 26, 33
Mavrokolymbos Dam 17, 22, 79, 79
Mesapotamos (monastery) 16, 56-7
Miliou 18, 23, 103, 104, 105
Mount Adelphi 16, 64-5, 66
Mount Makheras 113, 114
Mount Olympos 15, 34, 44, 45, 50, 51, 56-7
Mount Tripylos 16, 28, 72, 73
Moutti tis Sotiras (plateau) 97, 98, 99, TM
Neo Chorio 17, 23, 24, 99, 100, TM
Neradhes (valley, stream) 103, 104, 105

Nissi Beach 40-1

Omodhos 26, 27, 33

Pafos (Paphos) 5, 32, 33, 34, 38, 44, 48, 49, 74, 78, 130
town plan 10
Pakhna 26, 27
Panagia Angeloktistos (church at Kiti) 38, 118, 119, 120
Panagia tou Araka (church near Lagoudhera) 64-5, 65
Pano Amiandos 36, 52, 56-7
Pano Arkhimandrita 26, 33, 87, 88, 89, 90
Pano Panagia 30
Pano Theletra 103, 105
Paralimni 39, 40
Passia’s Meadow (picnic site) 34
Pedhoulas 32, 44
Pegia 22
Pegia Forest 92-3, 86
Pera Pedi 16, 32, 33, 67, 68
Peristerona (near Lefkosia) 34, 35
Perivolia 118, 119, 120
Persephone Nature Trail 16, 52, 56-7
Petra tou Romiou (see also Aphrodite’s Rocks) 26, 27, cover
Phasoula 33
Phini 56-7
Phinikaria 108-9, 110, 111, 112
Phrenaros 39, 40
Pissouri 27, 87
Pissouromouti (peak) 100, TM
Pittokopos 24, 82-3
Platania 34
Platres 16, 32, 33, 34, 44, 48, 56-7, 60, 62
Polis 22, 23, 44, 49, 96, TM
Pouziaris (plateau) 56-7, 60, 61
Prodhromi 22, 23, TM
Prodhromos 33, 44, 56-7, 62, 63
Profitis Ilias (church at Protaras) 39, 40, 122-3, 125, 126
Protaras (also called Fig Tree Bay) 40, 44, 121, 122-3, 125, 126
Psilon Dhendron 16, 34, 35, 56-7, 60, 61
Pyrga 37, 38
Pyrgos tis Rigaenas 17, 98, 99, 100, TM

Saittas 32, 33, 34
Selladi tou Stavrou Nature Trail 28, 69, 71
Silikou 67, 68
Skoulli 22, 23
Smigies Nature Trail (and picnic site) 17, 22, 24, 98, 99, 100, TM
Statos 28, 31
Stavros tis Psokas 28, 29, 69, 69, 70-1
Stavros tou Agiasmati (church) 64-5
Stavrovouni (monastery) 18, 34, 36, 37, 38, 44, 49, 116, 117
Stroumbi 22, 25

Tala 74, 75
Teisia tis Madaris Nature Trail 64-5, 66
Temple of Apollo 27
Terra 101, 102
Throni 29, 30-1
Trimiklini 34
Trooditissa (monastery) 56-7, 62, 63
Troodos (village) 15, 16, 33, 34, 50, 52, 53, 56-7
(mountains) 1, 5, 14, 15, 16, 32, 33, 44, 45, 48, 50, 51, 53, 54, 55, 56-7, 58, 61, 63

Xylophagou 39, 41
Xylotimbou (picnic site) 39, 40

Cyprus, 9th Edition (2023), updated 27/11/2023

Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Cyprus given below supplement those provided in the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have the 5th or an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)

Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.

NB: THIS BOOK COVERS SOUTHERN CYPRUS ONLY; for north Cyprus see ‘Walk & Eat North Cyprus‘

Walk 17: One area that we sometimes find difficult to judge while planning and before setting out to drive to a walk is whether we can drive to the start (or how close we can get) using a hire car which stipulates ‘No Off-road usage’.  We are nervous about going along gravel / dirt roads even if they are ‘smooth’. But it is ok to get all the way to Kato Arkhimandrita in a hire car.  The road is single track but concrete or tarmac all the way. (User, 11/23)

Walk 20: Google could not identify CTO Restaurant neither was it apparent at the Baths. Parking is available opposite the Aphrodite Baths Restaurant. To access the start point of the trail, go through the gate to the Baths and Botanical gardens and bear right. The first sign is shortly after passing the Baths. (User, 10/23) [Sunflower: The Baths restaurant is run by the CTO; we will make that clear in the new edition.]

Walk 21: One area that we sometimes find difficult to judge while planning and before setting out to drive to a walk is whether we can drive to the start (or how close we can get) using a hire car which stipulates ‘No Off-road usage’.  We are nervous about going along gravel / dirt roads even if they are ‘smooth’. The road to Agios Minas is perfectly ok in a hire car – in fact, we followed a coach up to the church.  The stretch from there to the picnic site is very rough – but it is only 10 minutes walk (at the most).
Being able to drive up to Agios Minas meant we cut cut out 80 minutes ‘boring’ walking – which meant we could do a much longer circular walk including Adonis trail and Pissourmomouti Peak (highly recommended).  PS The notice at the bottom of the ‘peak’ suggests 90 minutes to 2 hours – but your 1 hour  is just about right. (User, 11/23)

Walk 22a: The route to and from the waterfall is now a one-way system. The exit is signposted to the opposite side of the valley and rejoins the track to the waterfalls above the upper waterfall. Walk 22b: There is no sign to Odos Karis but the route is straight ahead with the open air theatre below and to the right. Similarly, there is no E4 arrow at the left turn although there is one on the left higher up the track as it rises below the fire station. (User, 10/23)

The following are suggestions for new routes, not corrections to the current edition:

New walk: Vaouni Panagias Trail (9.8km) European Long distance trial path E4 – on page 23 in the handbook from the CTO . We found an excellent new circular route of reasonable length which was on the whole very well sign posted. Little risk of getting lost. Starting point is opposite the cultural centre near the church in Pano Panagia village. Take a steep concrete road which climbs steeply up the hillside before turning to the right when the road starts to level off after 20mins or so (turn off is sign posted, although sign is pointing between the road and the turn off). Follow a well sign posted stony route which is narrower (4x4s use it) which winds up and around the hillside until it passes below the partially completed Vouni fire lookout station (small detour). Follow the well signed posted level track which passes through vineyards with south east views to the Troodos, before gradually turning and descending to come down the other side of the mountain. Choice of two tracks one to Panagia Chrysorrogiatissa monastery. This passes through countryside before ending rather unsatisfactorily at the concrete turn onto a main road. Turn right along road and reach the monastery which is visible and then follow the road into Pano Panagia village. The alternative choice leads directly to Pano Panagia village which we did not do. (User, 5/11)

Additional “short” walk: Before or after visiting Ayios Yeoyios (north of Coral Bay) it is possible to explore the Aspros Gorge. Take the turning off the Ayios Yeoyios road at Namos Snack Bar (see map page 78). Park at the end of the tarmac on the right or on a little and up left. The track can be followed across the gorge (on an old or new bridge) and onwards, or before crossing the gorge an indistinct path goes up at the end of a dry stone wall and left enabling exploration along the top of the gorge past some farms. (User, 4/12)

From a user in January 2017: We thought others might benefit from some less muddy walks, especially with the recent weather there. We couldn’t do either of the Aphrodonis trails and even the Smigies was a bit slippy. Although we had rain every day we were lucky we didn’t get too wet. We hear they’ve closed off roads to Troodos due to snow. Below are some ideas:

Variation for walk 22 Kritou Tera. Cataracts and Waterfalls. We wanted a walk that was not too muddy, this one we found is mostly on concrete. We found it best to access it from the opposite direction to Kritou Tera as, although we went through the village a number of times in the car, we often took the wrong turning. Access : From the B7 Paphos to Polis road heading north take the road on the left just after the sign to Akourdaleia, signposted Agia Ekaterina (mentioned on p97, but no longer a ruin). Drive up the winding road past the monastery (the road swings right here) and continue on until just past a left hand bend there is a sign on the right to the waterfalls. There is space just before the sign to park off the road without obstructing any fields, although you may have to turn round as you will probably have already passed the sign.
Take the very steep concrete track down the side of the valley, crossing to the other side and following the signposts. Ignore a track coming in from the left and after a little while you will reach a fork signposted left (straight on) to the waterfall and right to the cataracts.
Choose the right turn and drop very steeply to the river where there is a shady picnic area. There is a monopatia signposted Tis & Yis to the left of the bridge but in December it looked rather overgrown and muddy so we didn’t explore it. To the left of the picnic area is a wide earthen track which again we did not explore but it looked promising, if muddy at the time.
After admiring the pools retrace your steps past the remains of a water mill up to the fork and then take the road to the right signposted waterfall. To our disappointment we discovered that this is just a viewpoint as the waterfall cannot be reached from this side of the valley. However on the other side of the river to the left we could see steps with a handrail going down into the gorge, hence our suggestion that someone needs to explore the monopatia and the wide track from the picnic site.
The concrete road ends at the waterfall sign but the earth track goes round the hillside following the contours. Keep straight ahead and the track eventually returns to concrete and starts to wind its way up the hill towards Kritou Tera. Tera can be seen in the distance and the road between the two villages comes into view. You are walking between fields here.
Pass a sign pointing left to the waterfall which could be a shortcut (we suspect if you follow this you will end up back at the first track that came in to your left and have to climb back up to the car). Then when you come to a T junction cross the road and look behind you to see a sign to the waterfall facing you on the right hand wall pointing back the way you have come (a good sign you haven’t got lost). You need to turn left here, up towards Kritou Tera. More houses appear as you approach the village and pass the metal grating and small chapel mentioned at the beginning of walk 22 but going in the opposite direction. After exploring the village (which appears to be closed in winter) follow the signs to the left by the church to the museum and Agia Ekaterina.
Head out of the village on the tarmac road, past new villas and crumbling ones, going downhill and crossing to the other side of the valley until you reach the car.
Of course you could do this the other way round or park in Kritou Tera although both of these options end with a climb!

Picnic walk. To Agios Savvas from F616 – 2.5km each way
Access: Between Agios Georgios and Prastio heading from Asprokremmos Dam towards Mandria there is a small sign to Agios Savvas Monastery which is on the eastern side of the valley. There are two tracks here, the right hand one appears to be part of the old road so you can park here or go down the main concrete road a little and park there.
Follow the concrete road downhill as it winds a little to the left then crosses over the Diarizos river. You will see the chapel of Agios Mammas to your right but keep straight on at the crossroads just after the river crossing as there is no access to the chapel from the right hand path.
The road swings up behind the chapel, which is small but worth a visit and with good views down the valley. Continue along the road which now winds its way up into the hills. Stay on the main track which for a time becomes earthen. As you approach the monastery the road surface improves and splits in two, the right track goes up to the monastery. The buildings are ruined but the church is intact. Use the door opposite the large tree to access the church and use the tree trunk seat to enjoy your picnic. The other track continues towards the F612 between Mousere and Pano Archimandrita if you want to continue exploring.
(User, 1/17)

GPS files for use with the Landscapes of Cyprus guidebook:

Download GPS files for Landscapes of Cyprus

iPhone users need a free or paid app to open the zip file and see the files stored inside it. There are a variety of apps that can open zip files on the iPhone, but Zip Viewer is one of the easiest to use – and it is free.