Walking in Tenerife
£12.00
Landscapes of TENERIFE: 5 tours, 80 long and short walks
by Noel Rochford
This new 10th edition has been completely redesigned in a wider format – with larger type and no mapping lost in the gutter. Revised on the ground annually, the guide also has new topo walking maps with contours at 25m intervals. Based on OpenStreet mapping, the maps now show waypoints, and free downloadable GPS tracks are available for all the walks. Colour coding on the contents page enables you to see at a glance the grading of various walks.
Click below to read walker’s reviews and use the ‘Look Inside’ feature on Amazon.co.uk (RRP £14.99)
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This was the first ever guide for walking in Tenerife, but in recent years the island has become the most popular of all the Canaries among walkers. And for good reason. Tenerife has something for everyone: country lanes for strolling, nature trails for hiking, and mountains to be scaled — including El Teide, the highest in all Spain. The profusion of wild plants and flowers makes the island a botanical treasure.
Area covered: Based on Puerto de la Cruz, this book is the best choice for those staying in the north of Tenerife. For those who tour Tenerife by car, the drives range all over the island. Walks cover the Orotava Valley, Las Cañadas, and the Teno and Anaga peninsulas. (For walks in the south of Tenerife, see Landscapes of Southern Tenerife and La Gomera.)
The best guidebook is Landscapes of Tenerife, which shows another face of the island for walkers and picnickers, as well as those who tour Tenerife by car. (Sunday Times)
I found this book reliable and full of facts, which I expected. I’ve used other books in the series since I was a novice walker and found the walk descriptions generally sufficient. (JE, Amazon)
Invaluable historical, botanical and cultural background information… Many of the walkers we met (of various nationalities) also used the Sunflower guide, perhaps indicating that it is the most practical and definitive guide available. (MA, Amazon)
The best months for walking in Tenerife are from October to June.
If you are taking a package tour, aim to stay in Puerto de la Cruz, from where the excellent bus connections bring most of the walks within easy reach. If you are not tied to specific accommodation, you may like to spend a couple of days at the peaceful Parador de las Cañadas or you could use hotels in La Laguna or Santa Cruz for ease of access to the superb walking in the Anaga Peninsula.
5 car tours, 80 long and short walks, 30 picnic suggestions
176 pages; touring map; plans of Puerto de la Cruz and Santa Cruz; large-scale (1:50,000) topo maps
10th ed, Feb 2020; ISBN 978-1-85691-529-8; UK retail price £14.99 / USA retail price $20.00
Table of contents:
Preface 5
Acknowledgements; Useful books 6
Getting about 7
Plans of Puerto de la Cruz and Santa Cruz 8
showing city exits and bus departure points
Picnicking 10
Picnic/short walk suggestions 11
Touring 19
THE OROTAVA VALLEY AND LAS CAÑADAS (TOUR 1) 20
Puerto de la Cruz • La Orotava • Las Cañadas •
Los Gigantes • Guía de Isora • Adeje • Playa de las
Américas • Playa de los Cristianos • Vilaflor •
Las Cañadas • Puerto de la Cruz
THE RUGGED ANAGA PENINSULA (TOUR 2) 25
Puerto de la Cruz • Cruz del Carmen • Pico del Inglés •
Roque Negro • El Bailadero • Chamorga • Taganana •
Almáciga • Benijo • San Andrés • Igueste •
Puerto de la Cruz
SPECTACULAR NORTHWEST SETTINGS (TOUR 3) 29
Puerto de la Cruz • San Juan de la Rambla • Icod de
los Vinos • Garachico • Punta de Teno • Teno Alto •
Santiago del Teide • Icod el Alto • Puerto de la Cruz
QUIET CORNERS OF THE ANAGA (TOUR 4) 34
Puerto de la Cruz • Tacoronte • Bajamar • Punta del
Hidalgo • Batán • Las Carboneras • Taborno •
Pico del Inglés • La Laguna • Puerto de la Cruz
THE SUN-BAKED SOUTH (TOUR 5) 37
Puerto de la Cruz • La Laguna • La Esperanza •
El Portillo • Güimar • Arico • Candelaria •
Puerto de la Cruz
Walking (see explanation of grading symbols on page 41) 40
Grading, waymarking, maps, GPS 40
Where to stay 42
Weather 43
Nuisances 45
What to take 46
Country code 46
Advice for walkers 47
Spanish for walkers 48
Organisation of the walks 49
THE OROTAVA VALLEY AND LAS CAÑADAS
1 Two coastal walks from Puerto de la Cruz 50
2 Aguamansa • Benijos • TF21 56
3 Aguamansa • La Caldera • Choza Chimoche • Lomo de los Brezos • Aguamansa 59
4 Aguamansa • Pinolere • La Florida 62
5 La Caldera • Choza El Topo • Choza Almadi • Pino Alto • La Florida 64
6 The Organos ‘high road’: La Caldera • Lomo de los Brezos • Aguamansa 69
7 The Candelaria Trail: La Caldera • La Crucita • Arafo 72
8 El Portillo • Corral del Niño • Choza Chimoche • La Caldera 76
9 Las Cañadas 79
10 EI Teide 84
11 Roques de García and La Catedral 88
12 Montaña de Guajara 91
13 El Portillo • Piedra de los Pastores • Galería La Zarza • Chanajiga • Palo Blanco 94
THE NORTHWEST
14 Icod el Alto • La Corona • Chanajiga • Palo Blanco 97
15 Icod el Alto • El Lagar • La Guancha 100
16 La Montañeta • Las Arenas Negras • Los Partidos de Franquis • Erjos • Los Silos 107
17 Erjos • Las Lagunetas • El Palmar 112
18 Restaurante Fleytas • Montaña Jala • Los Bolicos • Degollada de la Mesa • Restaurante Fleytas 115
19 La Tabaiba • Teno Alto • Buenavista 119
20 La Montañeta (El Palmar) • Teno Alto • Teno Bajo • (Faro de Teno) • Buenavista 122
21 Los Silos • Talavera • Los Silos 126
THE ANAGA PENINSULA
22 Punta del Hidalgo • Batán de Abajo • Bejía • Punta del Hidalgo 130
23 Punta del Hidalgo • Chinamada • Las Carboneras 133
24 Las Carboneras • Taborno • Roque de Taborno • Casa Carlos 136
25 Casa Carlos• Afur • Playa de Tamadiste • Afur • Roque Negro • TF12 139
26 Pico del Inglés • Barranco de Tahodio • Santa Cruz 143
27 Taganana • Afur • Taborno • Las Carboneras 145
28 El Bailadero • Chinobre • Cabezo del Tejo • El Draguillo • Roque de las Bodegas 149
29 Chamorga • Roque Bermejo • Faro de Anaga • Tafada • Chamorga 152
30 Igueste • Barranco de Zapata • Playa de Antequera • Barranco de Antequera • Igueste 155
Bus timetables 159
Index 164
Fold-out island map inside back cover
Drawings of island flora 24, 28, 129, 135
Geographical names comprise the only entries in this index. For all other entries, see Contents, page 3. A page number in bold type indicates a photograph; a page number in italic type indicates a map (both may be in addition to a text reference on the same page. ‘TM’ refers to the large-scale walking map of the Anaga Peninsula on the reverse of the touring map. See also Bus timetable index, page 159.
Adeje (Ah-day-hay) 20, 23
Afur (Ah-foor) 17, 26, 139, 140, 141, 142, 145, 147, 148, 159, TM
Aguamansa (Ah-gwah-mahn-sah) 20, 56-7, 59, 60, 62, 65, 69, 70, 159
Alcalá (Ahl-kah-lah) 23
Almáciga (Al-mah-see-gah) 25, 28, TM
Anaga Peninsula (Ah-nah-gah) 25, 34-5, 130-158, TM
Arafo (Ah-rah-foh) 72-3, 75
Arico (Ah-ree-koh) 37
Arona (Ah-roh-nah) 24, 159
Bajamar (Bah-hah-mar) 34
Barranco (Bah-rahn-koh) river, ravine
Afur de Tamadiste (Ah-foor day Tahmah-dees-tay) 140, TM
de Antequera (day Ahn-tay-kay-rah) 155, 157, TM
de Bucarón (day Buh-kah-rohn) 127, 129
de Guarda 140, TM
de Igueste (day Eeg-west-tay) 156, 158, TM
de la Arena 51, 52
de la Madre del Agua 64, 65, 66, 70
de las Cuevas (day lahs Koo-ay-vahs) 122-3, 124, 125
de los Llanos (day lohs Lyah-nos) 11, 60, 72-3, 78
de Roque Bermejo (day Roh-kay Behr-may-hoh) 153, TM
de Taborno (day Tah-bor-noh) 137, TM
de Tahodio (day Tah-hoe-dee-oh) 17, 143, 144, TM
de Valle Luis (day Bahl-yay Loois) 143, TM
de Zapata (day Thah-pah-tah) 155, TM
del Agua (dayl Ah-gwah) 42-3, TM
del Río (dayl Ree-oh) 131, 133, 134, TM
Seco 132, TM
Barranco Ruiz 30, 53, 54-5, 105, 106
Barrio de la Alegría (Bah-ree-oh day lah Ah-lay-gree-ah) 144, TM
Batán de Abajo (Bah-tan day Ah-bah-hoh) 14, 34, 130, 132, TM
Bejía (Bay-hee-ah) 130, TM
Benijo (Bay-nee-hoh) 25, 28, 149, TM
Benijos (Bay-nee-hohs) 56-7, 58, 159
Boca Tauce (Boh-kah Too-say) 22
Buenavista (Boo-ay-nah-bees-tah) 14-5, 30, 114, 115, 117, 119, 121, 122-3, 125, 127, 159
Cabezo del Tejo (Kah-bay-thoh dayl Tay-hoh) 149, 151, TM
Café Vista Paraíso 50, 51, 52
Camino de las Crucitas (Kah-meen-oh day lahs Croo-thee-tahs) 61, 69, 70
Cañada (plain of sedimentary rock) (Kahn-yah-dah)
Blanca (Blahn-kah) 82-3
de la Grieta (day lah Gree-ay-tah) 80, 82-3
de las Pilas (day lahs Pee-lahs) 80, 82-3
de los Guancheros (day lohs Goo-an-shay-rohs) 12, 76-7, 94, 95
Canal Vergara (Kah-nahl Vair-gah-rah) 107, 108-9, 110
Candelaria (Lah Kahn-day-lah-ree-ah) 37, 72-3, 38-9
Candelaria Trail 11, 72-3, 74
Casa Carlos 26, 34-5, 136, 138, 139, 140, 159, TM
Casa Forestal de Anaga 145, TM
Chamorga (Shah-more-gah) 17, 25, 27, 149, 152, 153, 154, TM
Chanajiga (Shah-nah-gee-gah) 12, 56, 94, 96, 97, 98, 99
Chinamada (She-nah-mah-dah) 16, 36, 133, 134, 135, TM
Chinobre (She-noh-bray) 149, 150, TM
Chio (She-oh) 22
Choza (shelter) (Show-thah)
Almadi 64, 65, 68
Bermeja 76-7
Chimoche (She-moh-shay) 11, 56-7, 59, 60, 62, 63, 70, 72-3, 76-7, 78
Cruz de Fregel (Crooth day Fraygayl) 94, 95
Cruz de Luis 98
El Topo 11, 64, 65, 70
Enrique Talg 98
Inge Jua 64, 65, 70
Pedro Gil 60, 61, 65, 69, 70, 76-7
Perez Ventoso (Pay-rayth Behn-toh-soh) 62, 64, 65
Piedra de los Pastores (Pee-ay-drah day lohs Pahs-toh-rays) 94, 96
Corral del Niño (Koh-rahl dayl Neenyoh) 76-7
Costa Adeje 23
Cruz de Hilda 116-7
Cruz de las Lajitas (Krooth day lahs Lah-hee-tahs) 65, 68
Cruz del Carmen (Krooth dayl Kahrmayn) 25, 26, 35, 41, 159, TM
Cuesta de la Villa (Koo-ays-tah day lah Beel-yah) 52
Cueva del Hielo (Koo-ay-vah dayl Heeay-loh) 82-3, 86
Cuevas de los Roques (Koo-ay-vahs day lohs Roh-kays) 88, 89
Cuevas Negras, Las (Lahs Koo-ay-vahs Nay-grahs) 108-9, 111
Cuevitas de Limón (Koo-ay-bee-tahs day Lee-mohn) 76-7
Degollada (pass) (Day-gohl-yah-dah)
de Guajara (day Goo-ah-hah-rah) 91, 93
de Ucanca (day Oo-kahn-kah) 92, 93
del Cedro (dayl Say-droh) 94, 95
de la Mesa (day lah May-sah) 115, 116-7, 118
El Cabezón (Ayl Kah-bay-thohn) 94, 95
El Draguillo (Ayl Drah-geel-yoh) 28, 149, 150-1, 152, TM
El Lagar (Ayl Lah-gahr) 13, 100, 101, 102-3
El Palmar (Ayl Pahl-mahr) 31, 32-3, 112-3, 114, 159
El Pijaral 24-5, 27, 150, TM
El Portillo (Ayl Poor-teel-yoh) 12, 20, 37, 38, 41, 76-7, 82-3, 84, 94, 95, 96, 159
El Rincón (Ayl Reen-kohn) 52
El Tanque (Ayl Tahn-kay) 33
El Teide (Ayl Tay-ee-day) 22, 35, 43, 58-8, 67, 78, 82-3, 84-5, 87, 88-9, 159, cover
El Turrón 115, 117
Erjos (Air-hohs) 13, 14, 33, 107, 108-9, 111, 112, 114, 116-7, 116-7, 159
Faro (lighthouse) (Fah-roh)
de Anaga (day Ah-nah-gah) 152, 153, 154, TM
de Teno (day Tay-noh) 122-3, 124, 125
Fasnia (Fahs-nee-ah) 39
Forestal Park 37
Galería (water gallery) (Gah-lay-reeah) 44
Chimoche 56-7, 60, 70, 72-3, 76-7, 78
La Fortuita 56-7, 58
La Puente 60, 70, 72-3
La Zarza 94, 96
Las Moradas 114, 127, 128
Pino Soler 56-7, 58
Vergara Alta 108-9, 110
Garachico (Gah-rah-shee-koh) 29, 30, 43
Guía de Isora (Gee-ah day Ee-soh-rah) 20, 23
Güimar (Gwee-mahr) 38, 38-9
Icod de los Vinos (Ee-kod day lohs Bee-nohs) 29, 30, 33, 43, 159
Icod el Alto (Ee-kod ayl Ahl-toh) 29, 33, 54-5, 97, 98, 100, 102-3, 104, 105, 159
Igueste (Eeg-west-tay) 17, 25, 28, 155, 156, 157, 158, TM
La Caldera (Lah Kahl-day-rah) 12, 20, 56-7, 59, 60, 63, 64, 65, 69, 70, 71, 72-3, 76-7, 78, 159
La Catedral (Lah Kah-tay-drahl) 88, 90
La Cumbrilla (Lah Koom-breel-yah) TM
La Ensillada 150, TM
La Esperanza (Lah Es-pay-rahn-thah) 37
La Florida (Lah Floh-ree-dah) 62, 63, 64, 65, 68
La Fortaleza (Lah For-tah-lay-thah) 94, 95
La Guancha (Lah Gwan-shah) 33, 100, 102-3, 104, 105, 159
La Laguna (Lah Lah-goo-nah) 7, 34, 36-7, 43, 159
La Orotava, La (Lah Oh-roh-tah-bah) 20, 159
La Siete (Lah See-ay-tay) 14, 31, 119, 120-1
La Tabaiba (pass) (Lah Tah-bye-bah) 14, 31, 110-1, 112, 114, 115, 117, 119
Las Aguas 53, 54-5
Las Arenas Negras (Lahs Ah-ray-nahs Nay-grahs) 13, 107, 108-9
Las Bodegas (Lahs Boh-day-gahs) 155, TM
Las Cañadas (Lahs Kahn-yah-dahs) 12, 20, 21, 22-3, 45, 80-1, 82-3, 92-3, 159
Parador (Pah-rah-door) 22, 43, 79, 81, 82-3, 91, 93, 159
Visitors’ Centre see El Portillo
Las Canteras (Lahs Kahn-tay-rahs) 34
Las Carboneras (Lahs Kahr-boh-nayrahs) 34, 36, 133, 135, 136, 137, 145, 146, 148, 159, TM
Las Casillas (Lahs Kah-seel-yahs) 17, 27, 155, TM
Las Lagunetas (Lahs Lah-goo-nay-tahs) 112, 114
Las Lajas (Lahs Lah-hahs) 20, 24
Las Moradas 112, 114, 127, 128, 129
Las Palmas (Lahs Pahl-mahs) TM
Las Raices (Lahs Rah-ee-thays) 37
Llano de Ucanca (L-yah-noh day Oo-kahn-kah) 82-3, 88, 90
Lomo de los Brezos (Loh-moh day lohs Bray-thos) 59, 60, 69, 70, 76-7
Los Bolicos (Lohs Boh-lee-kohs) 115, 116-7, 118
Los Cristianos, see Playa de
Los Gigantes (Lohs Jee-gahn-tays) 20, 23, 159
Los Hermanos 130-1, 133, TM
Los Lavaderos 112, 114
Los Organos (Lohs Ohr-gah-nohs) 60, 69, 70, 71, 72-3
Los Partidos de Franquis (Lohs Par-tee-dohs day Frahn-kees) 107, 108-9, 111
Los Realejos (Lohs Ray-ahl-ay-hohs) 33, 54-5, 98, 159
Los Roques de García (Lohs Roh-kays day Gahr-thee-ah) 12, 22, 82-3, 88, 88-9, 90, cover
Los Silos (Lohs See-lohs) 30, 107, 108-9, 126, 127, 128, 129, 159
Masca (Mahs-kah) 31, 32
Mirador (viewpoint) (Mee-rah-door)
de Aguaide 16, 133, 134, 135, TM
de Baracán (day Bah-rah-kaan) 14, 31, 32-3, 116-7, 119, 120
de Chimague 37
de Chipeque 37
de Garachico (day Gah-rah-shee-koh) 33
de Pico Viejo (day Pee-koh Bee-ayhoh) 79, 82-3
de la Fortaleza (day la For-tah-laythah) 79, 82-3
de la Paz (day lah Paath) 8, 51, 52
de la Ruleta (day lah Roo-lay-tah) 88, 90
de las Chamucadas (day lahs Sha-moo-kah-dahs) 27
de San Pedro (day Sahn Pay-droh) 30, 53, 54-5
El Asomadero (Ayl Ah-soh-mah-dayroh) 97, 98
El Bailadero (Ayl Bye-lah-day-roh) 25, 26-7, 27, 43, 149, 150, 159, TM
El Lance (Ayl Lahn-thay) 98, 104, 105
Fuente del Lomo 137, TM
Jardina (Har-dee-nah) 35
La Corona (lah Koh-roh-nah) 13, 97, 98, 99
La Crucita (Lah Kroo-thee-tah) 11, 12, 37, 58-8, 72-3
Las Escaleras (Lahs Ays-kah-lay-rahs) 16, TM
Minas de San José 22, 82-3
Montaña Grande 37
Ortuño (Or-toon-yoh) 37
Pico del Inglés (Pee-koh dayl Een-glays) 25, 34, 36, 143, 159, TM
Piedra La Rosa (Pee-ay-drah lah Roh-sah) 56-7, 57
Montaña (mountain) (Mohn-tahn-yah)
Baracán (Bah-rah-kahn) 116-7, 119
Blanca (Blahn-kah) 82-3, 84, 85, 86, 87, 159
de Atalaya (day Ah-tah-lye-ah) 157, TM
de Guajara (day Goo-ah-hah-rah) 81, 82-3, 91, 92-3, 93
de Guamaso (day Goo-ah-mah-soh) 76-7
de las Arenas (day lahs Ah-ray-nahs) 11, 72-3
de Limón (day Lee-mohn) 76-7
de Majuá (day Mah-hoo-ah) 79, 82-3
Jala (Hah-lah) 14, 115, 116-7, 118
Mostaza (Moz-tah-thah) 80, 82-3
Negra (Nay-grah) 107, 108-9, 110
Montañeta, La
(near Icod de los Vinos) (Lah Mohn-tahn-yay-tah) 13, 16, 107, 108-9, 159
(near El Palmar) 112, 114, 115, 117, 119, 122-3, 127, 159
Observatorio de Izaña (Ee-thaanyah) 38, 82-3
Orotava Valley 20, 45, 56-7, 58-9, 67, 71
Palo Blanco (Pah-loh Blahn-koh) 56, 94, 96, 97, 98, 99, 159
Pico (mountain, peak) (Pee-koh)
Verde 116-7, 118
Viejo 79, 82-3, 87
Piedras Amarillas (Pee-ay-drahs Ahmah-reel-yahs) 12, 79, 80, 81, 82-3, 91, 93
Pino Alto (Pee-noh Ahl-toh) 64, 65, 68
Pinolere (Pee-noh-lay-rees) 62, 63, 63, 64, 65
Playa (beach) (Ply-yah)
de Antequera (day Ahn-tay-kay-rah) 155,156, 157, TM
de Benijo (day Bay-nee-hoh) 17
de las Teresitas (day lahs Tay-ray-seetahs) 18, 28
de los Troches (day lohs Tro-shays) 16, 30-1, TM
de Tamadiste (day Tah-mah-dees-tay) 26, 139. 142, TM
del Bollullo (dayl Boh-you-yoh) 50-1, 52
de las Arenas 14-5, 122-3
Playa de las Américas (day lahs Ah-may-ree-kahs) 20, 23, 159
Playa de los Cristianos (day lohs Kreest-yahn-ohs) 20, 23
Playa de San Marcos (day Sahn Mahr-kohs) 30, 43
Puerto de Erjos (Poo-er-to day Airhohs) 14, 33, 115, 117
Puerto de la Cruz (Poo-er-to day lah Krooth) 6-7, 20, 25, 29, 34, 37, 42, 50, 51, 52, 54-5, 159
town plan 8-9
Puerto de Santiago (Poo-er-to day Sahn-tee-ah-goh) 23
Punta (point of land) (Poon-tah)
de Teno (day Tay-noh) 15, 29, 30, 122-3, 124
del Fraile (dayl Fry-lay) 15, 30, 122-3
Punta del Hidalgo (Poon-tah dayl Hee-dahl-goh) 34, 130-1, 132, 133, 159, TM
Rambla, La 13, 53, 54-5, 106
Rambla de Castro 54-5
Ramón Caminero 12
Restaurante Fleytas 14, 107, 108-9, 115, 116-7
Roque (rock) (Roh-kay)
Bermejo (Behr-may-hoh) 152, 153, 154, TM
Chiñaco 122-3, 125
Chinchado 88, 88-9, cover
de Anambra (day Ahn-am-brah) 151, TM
de Taborno (day Tah-bor-noh) 136, 138, 146, 147, TM
del Peral (dayl Pay-rahl) 76-7, 82-3, 94, 95
Roque de las Bodegas (day lahs Boh-day-gahs) 28, 149, 151, 152, 159, TM
Roque Negro 25, 26, 139, 142, 159, TM
San Andrés (Sahn Ahn-drays) 25, 28
San José de los Llanos 108-9
San Juan de la Rambla (San Hu-an day lah Rahm-blah) 29, 30, 53, 54-5, 54-5, 105, 106
Santa Cruz (Sahn-tah Crooth) 7, 43, 144, 159, TM
town plan 8-9
Santiago del Teide (Sahn-tee-ah-goh dayl Tay-ee-day) 29, 31
Taborno (Tah-bohr-noh) 16, 34, 36, 136, 137, 139, 145, 148, 159, TM
Tacoronte (Tah-koh-rohn-tay) 34
Tafada (Tah-fah-dah) 152, 154, TM
Taganana (Tah-gah-nah-nah) 25, 26-7, 28, 139, 145, 146, 159, TM
Talavera (Tah-lah-bay-rah) 126, 127
Tamaimo (Tah-my-moh) 23
Tegueste (Tay-gwest-tay) 34
Tejina (Tay-hee-hnah) 34
Teno Alto (Tay-noh Ahl-toh) 29, 31, 115, 117, 119, 122-3, 125
Teno Bajo (Tay-noh Bah-hoh) 122-3, 125
Vilaflor (Beel-yah-floor) 20, 24, 159
Tenerife, 10th Edition (2016); updated 23/02/2020
The update for the 9th edition is below and will remain posted for a few months.
General
Gremlins at the printers have played havoc with the few waypoints that are identified by letters, not numbers — waypoints for short or alternative walks. If you see a red circle waypoint indication in the text with no number (the maps are correct), it is because a letter is missing. We think the instructions are clear enough without those waypoints, but if you find empty red dots too confusing, please email info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk and we will send you the offending page(s) as a pdf. Pages affected are: 56, 64, 72, 79, 85, 95, 108, 115-6, 122, 133-5, 139, 149, 152, 155. Sorry. (Sunflower)
Walks 3, 5-8: We have a report from a user that the bar/restaurant at La Caldera is no longer operating. Hard to believe; can anyone confirm this? [Sunflower, 2/20]
Tenerife, 9th Edition (2016); updated 1/06/2019
Updates for walks and car tours (drives) on Tenerife given below supplement those provided in the 8th edition of the guidebook. It is vital that this Update is read in conjunction with the text of the book, but note that the Update applies only to the edition stated and not to any earlier editions. (If you have an older edition of this book you can “upgrade” to the latest edition at half price.)
Information has been forwarded to us by users of the book, and Sunflower Books offers the data in good faith but cannot be held responsible for any misleading or inaccurate content in the Update. Unless indicated otherwise, what appears here has not been verified by the author or publisher, so please allow due caution when new or amended routes are suggested. Each piece of information is dated; bear in mind that some of the older observations may have since been overtaken by events or further changes. If, during your holiday, you are using the current edition of the guide and are able to provide any additional updating to add to this page, we will be pleased to hear from you. Please send information, preferably by e-mail, to info@sunflowerbooks.co.uk.
Buses: There have been major changes in the bus system on Nothern Tenerife, so the bus suggestions in the book are no longer reliable. Many routes have been changed, a few have been cancelled all together and a few new routes have appeared. When we were there (06th – 19th January) the the bus station in Puerto de la Cruz did not have a bus schedule, but the tourist information at the harbour had produced their own, which came in very helpful. (User, 1/19)
Car tour 3. When I visited (December 2016) the TF445 was closed at Buenavista for repairs following a collapse earlier in the year. There is no alternative route, and I was told that the road may be restricted to buses and farm traffic when it has been repaired. (User, 2/17) + Confirmed by Sunflower, 2017. There are buses from Buenavista to the point, cost 1 euro.
Walk 1a: We walked as far as El Rincon on 24/1/19 and 27/1/19. The Camino de la Costa is closed for stabilisation work between Mirador de la Paz and Hotel Semiramis. It is easy to follow Leopoldo Cologan instead. (User, 1/19) + The Camino de la Costa section between the Mirador de la Paz and the Hotel Semiramis is currently closed; you have to walk along the road… After the turn off to Bollullo Beach, the clifftop path is closed and you have to go through a wall. I thought maybe this was the point at which you had to head inland, as there was a path, but this leads to barriers. Instead you have to follow the inside of the wall by the cliff (there are a couple of white arrows) and step through the wall again onto the clifftop. (User, 2/19)
Walk 1b: The path closure after the Maritim was still in place on 25/1/19. (Not when Sunflower checked in Dec 18!) The barriers at either end are still easily skirted and look to have been often. Many people were using the path in both directions. (User, 1/19) Sunflower notes: at least we both agree that the path is being used by many people! + Nice walk. To get to the bus stop, turn left on reaching TF5. Follow the main road – you will see it disappear into a double tunnel, but you turn left up a side road signposted San Vicente just before the tunnel. The bus stop is 20 m up this road. (User, 2/18) + We went on this walk in June 2018 from Puerto de la Cruz to La Casona near San Pedro and back. When we found the path behind the Hotel Maritim, we found that the path had been closed due to a rock fall. This effectively closed the pathway around the Playa de los Roques to the viewpoint. We observed other people walking along the path in the distance and bided our time until a “local” went through a gap in the fence which cordoned off the path. We duly followed. When we got about two thirds around the path, we found one boulder blocking the path from a cliff fall which had damaged the safety wall. This was easy to climb over and continued on our way to the viewpoint. There was also a cordoned off fence at the end of the path, but again with a gap to squeeze through. Note should also be made to the steepness of the winding path which leads from the viewpoint up the hill towards the La Romantica II development. Also, within the gardens around La Casona, the pathway to the fort “El Fortin” is also closed. Although the walk in the book states a distance of 2.5 miles each way, we felt that it may actually be further than this! (User, 6/18) + There is no longer any barring of the coastal path by the Hotel Maritim, and many walkers were using the path last week. (Sunflower, 12/18) + As per other comments, there are still signs about the path being closed by the Hotel Maritim, but they are easy to skirt round and the rockfall is barely noticeable. The pathway to the fort “El Fortin” is still signed as being closed, though I didn’t have to time to check whether you could in fact get through. I’d recommend editing the (rather key) update to have the remark about the bus stop on a separate line, to make it more obvious. Also, the way they mark timetables in Tenerife is different to what we’re used to in the UK and could catch you out – the timetables on the post are captioned showing where the bus has come from (e.g. “Desde Icod”) rather than where it’s going to. So to get back to Puerto de la Cruz, you want the bus stop on the east (far) side of the Carretera de San Vicente. (User, 6/19)
Walk 2. We had difficulty at about the 1hr 30 minute point. After leaving the ravine we came to a steeply descending concrete track and followed it down assuming it was the one referred to in the text. It was very steep and ended in an overgrown, narrow, dirt track. We emerged onto the TF 326 but not where expected. With the help of some locals we got back on track. We had come down in Benijos rather than to the east of it. I feel it needs to be mentioned that the first concrete lane should be ignored and I assume we should have continued straight across the terracing a bit further. (User, 6/19)
Walk 3. A stunning woodland walk. Some of the signs have been changed (the one to La Bestia has disappeared but the junction is obvious), and Choza Chimoche is now a more substantial stone shelter. Just beyond Choza Pedro Gil I couldn’t find the tree with two yellow circles, so I continued on the track past Galeria La Puente. The return path (second turning right, at a ‘crossroads’) isn’t the outward path from Aguamansa. (User, 2/17)
Walk 6: This walk was open, though it had no signposts or waymarks. The path was in good condition. There are some sections with chains or railings. There are also sections with a fair amount of exposure which have neither chains nor railings. It is a fine walk which should be retained in the book, but it is probably not for those who are nervous about exposure. (User, 2/19)
Walk 10: Having gone up Teide for sunrise after a night in the Refugio Altavista, I descended to the parador via Pico Viejo. This is long, and some of the terrain is bouldery or slippery, but the path is well marked, and this route completed a splendid traverse of the mountain. I think it could be mentioned as an alternative for experienced walkers. (User, 2/19)
Walk 12: I think they must have substantially upgraded the path, as I found this route much less challenging than the description… The “not very obvious” beginning of the ascent (page 75) now has signposts, boards, and waymarks, and would be very hard to miss! The turning for the summit does not have a signpost, but it does (as you mention) have a metal pole (and also a red and white cross on a rock). Once you follow the path, though, it has regular metal posts labelled “Sendero 15”. Further along there is a fork with signposts showing an out and back route to the summit, and a path to the parador. Returning to this fork after visiting the summit, I followed the path to the parador without any difficulty. It was well engineered and clear, with no exposure, no scrambling and no cairns. It was a splendid and fairly straightforward descent route, and it would be a shame if walkers were deterred from following it by the intimidating description! (User, 2/19) + Walk 12. I think the user in the update (2/19) used the new descent on sendero 15 from the summit rather than the across the escarpment as in the guide. It goes west on a good path and picks up 31 at the Uncanca pass for a circular walk. The latest freytag & berndt map shows it. We have ascended/descended via the escarpment on 3 previous occasions but could not find the start at either end this time and saw no one else attempt it (maybe the authorities have been successful in closing it?). So we used the new route instead. (User, 3/19) + Guajara. A great walk and the new route is easy to follow and well-graded with no scrambling whatsoever. Wherever the old route was, there is no sign of it now. (User, 6/19)
Walk 16. It’s easy to do the first part of this walk with a car by parking near Restaurante Fleitas and taking bus 360 to La Montañeta… The path from the road crossing to the Arenas Negras is fairly overgrown in places but still visible (when it forks at a tree soon after the road, the way on is the more overgrown path to the right, not the ‘easier’ one to the left). At the 20-minute point there isn’t now such an obvious break in the trees. The signs about not walking on top of the roofed-over canal have gone, though it’s easier to walk on the path. (User, 2/17)
Walk 18: Since the resurfacing/improvements on the TF82 the parking at the bus stop at Fleytas has been eradicated with yellow hatching and a bus area marked out over the area. The parking up the road to Jala marked on your map still exists. (User, 3/19)
Walk 22: Although we (like other publishers) have included the canal walk in our book for perhaps 30 years, it is exceedingly dangerous. Due to a few deaths recently, we have been told in no uncertain terms by the staff at the Cruz del Carmen info centre that they do NOT want walkers using the canal. They suggest PR 11 to Batan and back the same way. (Sunflower, 12/18) + Walk 22. Update noted and we noticed the track at the 3 minute point is now gated and padlocked with a pedestrians prohibited sign and a grill at the side to prevent access over the wall. (User, 3/19) + Correction: In Batan, the bar (Bar Mi Pueblo) is no longer in the village square, so might be missed if following the route – it’s now opposite the bus stop, at the end of the road, as you can see on this streetview. Still closed Tuesdays though… Clearly, the walk can’t be included in its current form anymore, sad though that is. Although we got through the gate (a passing jogger pointed out it wasn’t locked), the farmer, alerted by dogs, soon came out to turn us back. So, although disappointed to have to miss out, we took the alternative walk up the barranco bed instead and this was a lot more enjoyable than I expected, being quite lush (late Feb) and it felt like being an explorer! You have to keep your eyes open to spot the best path, but you can’t get lost. As small consolation, it’s straightforward to make your way up to the canal shortly before it ends (the 1h point) and do 100-200m of it, where it’s quite low but you do have to crawl past bulging boulders… The climb up to Batan is great, so I think following this route up and back via TF11 would be better than the info centre’s quoted suggestion… For the return leg, we did make it onto the canal (making our way quickly and silently down to the river bed) and this is a much safer stretch, though there are prohibition signs at either end. (User, 6/19)
Walk 24. The Roque de Taborno path seems to disappear a third of the way around, roughly where the second exclamation mark is on the map. I couldn’t see a safe way onwards from here so turned back. I met some other walkers who had done the same, as well as a couple coming from the other direction who had attempted to circle the rock clockwise and had also found their way blocked. (User, 2/17)
Walk 25: We only did a short variation Afur — Playa del Tamadite — Afur, but we noticed that downhill, the walk was a lot more difficult to do at the suggested pace than other walks in the book. This was due to the surface of the path (often small, loose stones or sandy slopes), which was not safe to walk quickly on downhill, unless one is very sure-footed and quick to identify the right, safe stones to step on. Downhill, we walked at perhaps half the speed indicated, while uphill, we were actually a few minutes faster than the suggested pace. There are frequent comments on the risks of vertigo in the book, which thanks to well-made railings we did not suffer from, but fewer on the nature of the surfaces of the paths. (User, 9/16).
Walk 26: The path was closed at Pico del Ingles, but we did the walk anyway because the bus had left, so we felt we had to give it a try. We did not encounter any trouble on the way down, and the walk was not closed at the end. We concluded that the troubles may be on PR TF 2. (User, 1/19)
Walk 28: The Chinobre mirador is closed to walkers – even those with a permit. It will not reopen. (Sunflower, 12/18)
BELOW ARE SUGGESTIONS FOR ALTERNATIVE WALKS, NOT CORRECTIONS TO THE TEXT
In winter the Orotava walks are at their best very early, between 08.00-11.00. After that clouds and mist hide all the views. It is often chilly and rainy, even when sunny at Puerto. In winter head for the Cañadas and coastal areas of the Anaga. Even if you stay in Puerto, pack a copy of Landscapes of Southern Tenerife and La Gomera: If the weather is bad in the north, Walks 1 and 2 in the latter book are within easy reach of Puerto and most enjoyable. (User)
Walk 6: One can continue the walk PAST Portillo del Topo mentioned on page 55. The path is similar to the rest of Los Organos in that it is on the edge of the rock face. At the beginning the path (GR131) climbs slowly; in 30min it turns inland and zig zags up steeply to go round the base of a rocky spur. It then descends and reascends past a second rocky spur. At 45 min you are on a path with trees on both sides. In 50 min you cross some stones at the top of a barranco. In 1 hour you reach a bulldozed forestry track: turn left and follow it downhill. Five minutes later you reach a junction; ignore the tracks to right and left and continue straight ahead; this track curves around and descends and you should ignore all tracks going off it and continue descending. In 1h45min you arrive, after a steep descent, at Choza Almadi. The path back to Choza El Topo and La Caldera is the one on your immediate left. (several users, 2006, who say the whole walk takes about 5h). This route is shown on our map, but not highlighted in colour. (Sunflower)
Walk 8: Another way to start is to cross the road from the Information Centre and follow Walk 9, but fork left after 5 min onto National Park Path No 2 and follow this path as it winds uphill. After about 1h the path swings north across a wide desolate plain (at this point Path No 2 goes right to join up with the Las Cañadas track). Towards the end of the plain the path gets fainter, but if you veer to the right, towards some bushes, the path becomes clear again and within 1min you reach a bulldozed track. Turn left (north) and follow this to the road. Turn right and within 15 mins you are at Corral del Nino. This adds 2mi/3km; 1h to the route in the book, but cuts out the boring walk up the road. (User) [Note: not all of this route is shown on our maps.]
Walk 13, new alternative: Here is a suggestion for second Alternative walk 13 (duration about 4-4.5hrs). Follow Alternative walk 13 to viewpoint at the end of the Canada, then almost immeadiately on turning and retracing your steps turn right onto Sendero 33. Initially this is a little tricky as it crosses and rounds blocky lava flows, but after about 15 mins becomes easy underfoot. There are a couple of short sharp ascents as the path meanders through scrub and accross small canadas. After a little over an hour the path terminates where it meets sendero 22. Turn left here. This path is a delightful easy gentle downhill stroll, initially heading towards Degollada del Cedro before veering right towards El Cabezon. As it veers there is a short sharp ascent over a lava flow, then a few minutes later it rejoins the outbound path where you turn right to return to El Portillo. (User, 11/11)
Walk 16, new alternative: San José de los Llanos – El Volcán Negro – San Juan de la Reparo – (Garacico).
3 Hours (4 hours to GARACHICO)
This is a similar grade walk to Walk 16 covering the same diversity of landscape.
Instead of getting off the 360 bus at La Montañeta go to the next village higher up at San Jose De Los Llanos. The bus drops you off in front of the church. At the front of the church is a big trail map covering the area featuring the TF43 which covers most of this region. Directly opposite the church is a lane with a yellow and white TF43.1 sign to Chinyero which we follow for the first 45 minutes. The lane makes a very short climb before subsequent signs guide you right, then left at junctions. On the edge of the village 50 yards down from the final T junction the path heads off into the pine forest. It’s a steady gradual climb through the forest of about 40 minutes on a path lined both sides with stones, pine needles cover the path. You cross a couple of minor tracks and pass a shrine. Near the top the stones lining the path become more sparse but the path is well used and easy to follow. The crunch of feet on volcanic ash rather than pine needles signals you are near the top at El Volcan Negro on the main walk where the tree line disappeared. At Volcan Negro the path needlessly zig zags the last couple of minutes up to the track following the canal used by Walk 16. It’s clear that most people ignore the zig zags and just head stright up to the TF43 sign on the track suggesting you have come 2.9 Kms from the start, a climb of about 100m. At the track turn left and follow it parallel to the canal in the opposite direction to Walk 16. You leave the TF43 behind for the time being. At about 10/15 minutes along the track you come to the barrier. A few yards past and the TF43 crosses the track. Turn left here and follow the TF 43 down for about 10 minutes to Las Arenas Negras. Towards the end of this section the Pista de Canal track used to ascend by Walk 16 parallels the path to the right. The path joins the Pista Canal but just a few yards before this junction rather than ascend the last few steps up to the track continue down the natural gulley with the track up on your right. Almost immediately you are in Las Arenas Negras picnic site with a very well maintained toilet block on your left. Continue down through the picnic site to the large trail map identical to the one at the start. You now go down the track in the reverse direction of the start of Walk 16. We took about 35 minutes for this section. Almost immediately after the picnic site a 4 wheel drive circuit joins the track from the right. At the first major T junction the main track we are on bends left and a fainter track comes in from the right. Go down neither but go straight ahead down a trail opposite. The trail recrosses the track and eventually comes to the main road, just go down, ignoring all minor turnoffs. Across the road the path becomes a track for about 150 yards where you turn right. A prominent white stone marker by the path about 50 yards down reassures. It is labelled MP17 and you will come across several similar stones later. You come to the Ermita San Francesco about 1 hour 45 mins into the walk, this is the start of Walk 16. The TF43 has reappeared and the path down to the coast is signed San Juan de la Reparo 3.4 Kms, Garachio 6.2 Kms. The path is very well engineered, a gradual continuous descent. The path has been cleared through an otherwise impenetrable volcanic rock field with pine forest your path is either a layer of pine needles oe the crunch of volcanic stones. Apart from the very beginning and end at San Juan de la Reparo there is no sign of civilisation except for a brief stretch of track and a couple of canals. Going through a tunnel underneath a new road signal San Juan de la Reparo after about 75 minutes from La Montenata. Although there are 3 bus routes 325, 392 and 460 down to Icod and in the case of the 325 to Puerto you may have quite a wait. You can continue following the TF43 down to the coast at Garachio down a very steep descent compared to the rest of the walk of tabout an hour. Garachio is a very nice place and it’s almost a pleasure to just miss your bus to Puerto. (User, 9/12)
Walk 18, an alternative walk to Masca: Follow the directions for the Alternative Walk to Buenavista, BUT at the only junction turn LEFT (NOTE the path straight ahead is marked Teno Alto and there is also a stone column with a plate “La Cancela” at this junction). The path goes downhill and joins the Masca road at a mirador, which has a bar underneath it. Take the old road on the left of the mirador and in a short distance along it turn RIGHT onto a path going downhill, there is a waymark on a rock about 10 yds along it. Follow the path downhill; it is waymarked at all junctions and rejoin the Masca road. Turn LEFT and follow this for about 1/2 mile to the Bus Stop. The bus to Santiago de Teide leaves at 16.15 and links up with the 460 Bus to both Playa de las Americas and Icod de los Vinos from where you can catch the 363 back to Puerto. The walk is about 7 miles long. (User, 1/08) + The suggested walk to Masca is good and after joining the road at the Mirador above Masca when you go along the old road on the left the path down is now marked with a Finger post. (User, 6/08)
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